Sunday, August 29, 2010

Pocket Tutorial Part 1

I promised a while back to post a tutorial for creating a lined pocket. This will finish any open object with a nice seam at the top. In addition to pockets, this technique works for Christmas stockings (and stocking ornaments) and purses. I made this sample to demonstrate finishing the pocket for the crewel chatelaine class. I was going to just show the technique using plain fabric but...I've been reading Judith Baker Montano's new book, Fiberart Montage, and decided to play a bit. I only used materials that were right to hand--this was a last minute idea. I had cut some pocket linings too small so I used them. This piece would have been much better (and easier) if I'd had used a larger piece of fabric that could have been hooped. As it was, I had a 4" square, precut. So here's my embroidery partly done. I used a piece of commercial gold cording for the "tree" and one of the blue scraps I'd picked up on my walks last winter for the sky. Step one, you need four pieces of fabric the same size. Pocket front and back and lining front and back. Sew the pocket outside on three sides leaving the top open. (right sides of the pocket and backing facing). Place the right sides of the lining pieces facing and pin. Sew leaving the top edge completely open and also leaving an opening on the bottom edge. I left about a 2" opening here. Back stitch at the opening to secure it well. Use whatever seam allowance works for your piece--just make sure the stitched size of both pieces is the same. Trim the seams and clip the corners on both the pocket and the lining to avoid bulk and help them to turn nicely. Turn your pocket right side out. Leave the lining inside out. Poke the pocket corners out carefully and completely. Press. Slip the pocket inside the lining. You may need to roll up the bottom of pocket a bit to get it to fit inside. Line up the open top edges of the pocket and lining. Match the side seams and pin. Pin the pocket to the lining all around the open top edge.

If you are making a hanging ornament or a purse with straps, this is where you add the handing loop or straps. The cut ends of the loop or strap match the cut ends of the top edge of the pocket and lining. Place the loop or strap pieces wherever you want them to be along the edge, between the pocket and lining pieces and pin in place. Tuck any excess loop or strap out of the way of the seam so it's won't get caught--you might want to pin it out of the way.When you stitch back over them to secure them firmly. Stitch a seam all the way around the top, stitching the pocket to the lining. On a small item like this it's easiest to stitch from the inside of the item. On larger pieces that will fit over the sewing machine arm, it's easier to stitch from the outside. Part 2 will be posted tomorrow.